Do You Use the Right Skin Cleanser?

Let’s face it; problem skin can be a daily challenge for many of us. Fortunately, the cycle of skin breakouts, dryness and irritation is not a mystery. It often lies in the way we approach skin cleansing, because even gentle cleansers and soaps can harm our skin's natural protective barrier. Using a gentle skin cleanser with moisturizers before applying topical medications will also help ensure that you get the best results.1 If your skin's moisture barrier is disrupted, topical medications may cause irritation  or stinging2 and may even work less effectively. Hence, using the right cleansing regimen is critical to adequate skin care.

The skin's natural protective barrier is the top layer of skin, called the  stratum corneum or moisture skin barrier. It is composed of protein-rich cells, proteins and intercellular lipids (fats). This natural barrier stops water from leaving the skin and environmental residues — bacteria and chemicals — from entering. Having an intact stratum corneum (moisture skin barrier) that is free of dirt, bacteria and excess oil is critical for keeping the skin healthy.3

The challenge in keeping your skin healthy is that the stratum corneum is thinner than plastic food wrap and can be easily damaged by products we use on our skin.4 Even one-time usage of some cleansers can leave the skin damaged for several days. “Gentle” and acidic or pH balanced cleansers are generally better than the rest but can still contain harmful ingredients.

Avoid sodium-based detergents4, lauramide DEA5 (a foaming agent), paraben preservatives6 and artificial coloring agents7. Sodium-based ingredients are particularly harmful. In one study of irritant skin reactions,
complete skin repair after a one time use of a weak sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) solution was not achieved for 17 days.8 Look for cleansers which contain moisturizers. Moisturizers may help restore a damaged moisture skin barrier.9 There are different kinds of moisturizers, which have different mechanisms of action. Occlusive moisturizers form a moisture barrier which keeps the moisture in the skin.

Emollients soften the skin. Humectants bind to water and thus attract water to the stratum corneum and temporarily hold it there. A blend of moisturizers works to make the skin soft, smooth and pliable rather than rough and dry. For increased benefit, use a cleanser that contains more than one type of moisturizer.